You ever wonder why almost nothing will grow under a black walnut tree? Or why old
timer gardeners plant marigolds in their vegetable gardens? Ive heard tales of why
this is so, but wondered what else fits into the categories here. Let me tell you research
wasnt easy on this subject, and finding first hand experience was really hard.
Whenever I bring up the subject of companion planting to others, they usually think
Im referring to color combinations in the garden. I get responses like "Oh I
like Coneflowers with Liatris." Actually companion planting has nothing to do with
aesthetics. I even managed to stump almost all of the experts in the garden.com chat room.
First is the reason nothing grows under the black walnut tree. This tree, and plants
like it are Allelopathic. Allelopathy occurs when
plants release inhibitory chemicals into the soil or air, to make sure nothing is going to
compete with a plant for its share of rooting space, moisture and nutrients. There are
many other plants that are allelopathic that we dont even notice: legumes, grains,
brassicas, and marigolds can kill seedlings or limit seed germination. Red clover releases
9 different compounds that prevent new red clover seedlings from sprouting. Wormwood
(Artemesia) can interfere with plant growth, especially when interplanted with other
herbs. Fennel can inhibit the growth of veggies and herbs. Even wildflowers (or weeds,
depending on your outlook) can have allelopathic properties: Milkweed can inhibit the
growth of sorghum seedlings, while Peppergrass, evening primroses, and crabgrass can stop
germination of other seeds. Sunflowers are widely allelopathic and also inhibit nitrogen
fixation. Many insects use their sense of smell to find their way to favored food. On way
to use companion planting to protect your plants is to mask their odors with other
powerful smells. Onions and garlic, for instance, release powerful aromas in the air. You
can plant onions with strawberries and tomatoes, mint discourages cabbage loopers, and
basil repels tomato hornworms. Some plants make ideal garden companions simply because they dont compete, even when planted closely together. Plants like deep-rooted squash and shallow rooted onions. Crops that are heavy feeders combine well with light feeders. Taller plants can provide welcome light shade for ground huggers. Legumes have a mutually beneficial relationship with nitrogen fixing Rhizobium bacteria. The bacteria colonize legume roots, absorbing up to 20 percent of sugars the plants produce. The bacteria use this energy to capture atmospheric nitrogen (nitrogen gas) and convert it into nitrogen compounds that plants use. Part of the nitrogen trapped by the Rhizobium bacteria is released into the soil as the niodule-bearing roots die off and decompose. This nitrogen is available during the season to boost the growth of any companion plants growing nearby. The big bonus comes when you turn the foliage and roots of the legumes into the soil. When they decay, they can release enough nitrogen to feed the next crop you grow. I took most of the information here from two books: Roses Love Garlic, by Louise Riotte and Rodale's Successful Organic Gardening Companion Planting , by Susan McClure and Sally Roth. Roses Love Garlic looks mostly at the old gardeners wisdom. It tells what to plant or not plant with other plants, but doesnt exactly tell you why. Rhodales is more scientific (as scientific as companion planting can be anyhow). I enjoyed reading Roses Love Garlic (its a good read), but I gained most information from the Rhodale book. There is also another good book, called Companion Planting , by Richard Bird. I took information I found in these books and attempted to make a spreadsheet from
them. Hopefully, I did my job in condensing 3 books into one document. I'm new
at importing Excel spreadsheets to the web, so it's a little crude, but hopefully, it will
help. Click here to see it. PREVIOUS ARTICLE: Next month's article: Unlocking the mysteries of a seed
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